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Eleven Questions to Ask About Your Property

10/4/2019

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So you're going to build a new home - how exciting!  Before you get to work planning that new home, it's important to consider your site and how it will affect the design of the home.  Below are eleven questions to ask yourself as you consider the design of your home and how it will fit on your property.  

These questions apply whether you've already purchased a lot or are just starting to look at properties.  If you already have a property, then these questions should help to determine the location of the home on the site and its layout.  If you're looking for property to buy, use these questions as you evaluate whether a given piece of land would suit your needs, particularly if you already have a floor plan that you would like to use.  

  • Where is the sun - in summer and winter? This is especially important if you plan to build a passive solar home or use roof-mounted solar panels but also affects how much sun - good or bad - you'll get in the house throughout the day.
  • Which direction do the winter winds come from? The summer breezes?  
  • Where are the views you want to enjoy and those you want to exclude? 
  • Are your neighbors’ homes visible? 
  • What other buildings or features do you plan to build on your site? 
  • Which parts of the site are most/least noisy? 
  • Are there any features of the site, such as vegetation or rock outcroppings, that you want to preserve?
  • How will you access the building site from the road, and what will you see as you drive along your driveway?  
  • Are there areas of the site that tend to be wet or carry surface drainage, or that should be avoided for other reasons?  
  • Is your site flat or sloping?  If sloping, is it a gentle or steep slope?  A flat site is ideal for slab on grade construction or an unexposed basement, or if you want a home that spreads out horizontally.  A moderately sloping site works well with a walkout basement.  A steeply sloping site works well with multiple levels and calls for a more vertical arrangement of levels and spaces (although keep in mind that there can be additional expenses related to site work that come with a steep site).  
  • Does the house size that you’re considering - including driveways, parking areas and outdoor living areas - fit well on your lot?

These questions and others are part of my Home Planning Guide, which is available for free download.

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Choosing Your Contractor, Part 2:  The Contract

6/5/2019

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In last month's blog post, I discussed how you can go about finding and choosing a general contractor for your project.  This month will explore the contract for construction itself.  First let's look at how contractors typically get paid.

HOW CONTRACTORS GET PAID
The most common way that contractors bill for their work is with a fixed-price bid which includes the cost for labor, materials, products and markup (the contractor’s 20- to 25- percent fee, which pays his overhead and his salary) for each phase of the job.  

Some contractors prefer to work on a time and materials (T&M) basis.  Instead of a set price, they charge as they go for the cost of labor and supplies, plus a markup.  Working on a time and materials basis, you pay only for the hours worked and the materials used, but it means less certainty about the final cost of the project.

The T&M contract may be especially appropriate for a project where there are a lot of unknowns,  such as a remodeling project where you’re uncertain what the contractor may find once he starts opening up the existing house.  An unscrupulous contractor can use a T&M contract to work slowly and pad his fee, so never sign a T&M contract unless it has a price cap (T&M, not-to-exceed contract).

THE CONTRACT
Once you've selected your general contractor, he or she should present you with a contract.  For the protection of both you and the contractor, always have a written contract. It should be clear and concise and should lay out all of your expectations and understandings about the job.  Do not sign anything until you understand it all. You may want to have your attorney review the contract before you sign it.

The contract should include:
  • the contractor’s name, physical address, phone number and license number
  • the scope of work, as detailed in the architectural drawings and specifications, including each material used and each product’s model, size and brand.  If some materials will be chosen later, the contract should say who’s responsible for choosing each item and how much money is budgeted for it (allowances)
  • the itemized bid (if you are using a fixed-price contract)
  • estimated project start and end dates 
  • any agreements you’ve made (e.g. when the workday starts, who is responsible for getting necessary permits, or whether the contractor is responsible for trash hauling and clean-up work)
  • a statement explaining any warranties on materials, labor or services (be sure you understand any exceptions or limitations)
  • the payment schedule for the contractor, subcontractors and suppliers
  • how changes orders are handled
  • a requirement that the contractor obtain lien releases from all subcontractors and suppliers
In addition you should get a list of subcontractors and proof of insurance.


THE PAYMENT SCHEDULE

A contract for construction should include a payment schedule.   The contractor may ask for an initial down payment.  After that, the contract should call for progress payments - that is, installments made when certain predetermined parts of the job (framing, mechanicals, drywall) have been completed to your satisfaction.  Never let the dollars get ahead of the work, so that you’re not paying out money for work that hasn’t been finished.   The final payment (retainage) should be at least 10 to 15 percent of the total cost.  
Before you sign off and make the final payment, check that:
  • all work is complete and meets the standards spelled out in the contract
  • the contractor has given you all of the product manuals and warranty certificates
  • you have proof that all subcontractors and suppliers have been paid (via lien waivers)
  • the job site has been cleaned up and cleared of excess materials, tools and equipment

The general contractor should give you lien waivers each time he is paid, as proof that he has in turn paid his subcontractors and suppliers for their labor and materials. If you pay the general contractor, but he fails to pay his subcontractors or suppliers, the subs or suppliers can put a lien on your home.

KEEP RECORDS

Before, during and after construction, keep all paperwork related to your project in one place.  This includes:
  • copies of the contract
  • change orders
  • any correspondence with your home improvement professionals
  • a record of all payments - you may need receipts for tax purposes
Keep a log or journal of all phone calls, conversations and activities.  You may also want to take photographs as the job progresses.  These records are especially important if you have problems with your project - during or after construction.



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Choosing Your Contractor, Part 1

5/15/2019

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It’s important to find the right contractor for your project, one whose skills and experience are a good fit for your project, and someone whom you can trust and feel comfortable working with.  Many contractors have a specialty, for example new homes, remodeling, or historic preservation.  Some are accustomed to working on fairly simple homes; others have experience building challenging homes which require a lot of craftsmanship and attention to detail.  You’ll want a contractor who has experience on projects similar to yours.  

If you plan to build using an uncommon material or building system (e.g. timber frame construction, SIP panels, straw bales, ICFs) or want a highly energy efficient house (e.g. built to Passive House standards or using double stud walls), you’ll want a contractor who has experience building with those materials / systems.


FINDING PROSPECTIVE CONTRACTORS

Talk to friends, neighbors and co-workers who’ve done home construction projects.  If you can, take a look at the work done and ask about their experience.   You might try asking for recommendations from the local building inspector, who'll know which contractors routinely meet code requirements, or pay a visit to your local lumberyard, which sees contractors regularly and knows which ones buy quality materials and pay their bills on time.  If you’re doing a remodeling project, check with the National Association of the Remodeling Industry for a list of members in your area (nari.org).  To find builders in your area that are members of the National Association of Home Builders, visit nahb.org. 


DO YOUR RESEARCH

Once you’ve got names of potential builders, it’s time to research them. Look at the Better Business Bureau website for information regarding complaints. Keep in mind that a complaint is not necessarily proof of a bad act on the part of the contractor, but a slew of complaints can signal potential difficulties with the contractor’s services.
 

Check out a contractor’s reputation on online rating sites you trust.  Do people seem to have similar experiences, good or bad? 


TALK TO THE CONTRACTOR

Now that you’ve done the initial vetting of prospective contractors, it’s time to contact those who’ve made the cut.  Give each prospective contractor a call.  Ask him questions.  (I have compiled a list of “Questions to Ask a Prospective Builders”, which I give out to clients.)

Ask for references from former customers of the builder, and randomly call several of those references, (although you should keep in mind  that the contractor is likely to “cherry pick” past customers and is unlikely to use an unsatisfied customer as a reference).  My resource “Questions to Ask Builders’ References” provides a helpful list.

Ask the contractor for a list of subcontractors normally used during projects. Contact the subcontractors and ask them about their experiences in working with the general contractor. Ask if they were paid promptly.  Ask them for any safety or ethical concerns and whether they're comfortable working with the contractor.

Ask the contractor for credit references from suppliers and call them to find out whether the contractor pays his bills on time.  


MEET THE CONTRACTOR

Assuming that everything has checked out well, meet with the prospective contractor face to face.  Is he easy to communicate with?  Does he inspire trust?  Is this someone that you’d like to work with over many months?

Visit a current job site and see for yourself how the contractor works. Is the job site neat and safe? Are workers courteous and careful with the homeowner's property?

Visit completed projects that the contractor has built.  Is the quality of construction good?


BID OR TO NEGOTIATE?

At this point there is one of two ways that you can go.  You can request bids from more than one contractor, or you can choose your favorite and ask that one for a proposal.  There are pros and cons to each method.  


IF YOU CHOOSE TO BID THE PROJECT

If you choose to bid out the project, now is the time to ask for bids.  It may be tempting to get lots and lots of bids, but it’s preferable to choose only three.  This will give you a fair sample to choose from without wasting the time of many contractors who have a small chance of seeing any payback for the many hours that it takes to put together a bid.  It will also be easier for you to make a decision if you don't have a multitude of bidders to choose from.

Give each prospective contractor a set(s) of drawings.  Ideally your prospective contractors will be bidding from a complete set of architectural plans and specifications that call out every detail of the project.  Otherwise each contractor will make his own assumptions about what you want, and the bids will be apples-to-oranges comparisons.   

Each bid should include a detailed breakdown of the cost of materials, labor, and overhead and profit.  With  luck, each contractor will have broken down his bid in a similar way to make it easy to compare, but it’s more likely that you will have to do some deciphering and ask some questions to figure out what is and isn’t included, and the cost of each item.  I have put together a spread sheet that I can use to help clients compare bids from different contractors.

ALLOWANCES:  If you have an abbreviated set of architectural plans or have not yet chosen all of the materials and products for your project, any items that haven’t been nailed down will typically be handled with an allowance, a dollar amount meant to cover, for example, the cost of your cabinets.   Be aware that allowances are often too low, which can result in an unpleasant surprise when you get the bill for the actual cost of those items.  Even if you aren’t ready to make a final selection of items, you can get a rough idea of their cost by going to the store or looking online to get a sense of the price range for the style and level of quality that want.  Don’t forget to include the cost of sales taxes and delivery charges for the items.


SELECT THE CONTRACTOR

Once you have all of the bids in hand, don’t automatically choose the lowest bidder.  Be wary of any bid which is much lower than the others.  A contractor whose bid is substantially lower than the others may have left something out of his estimate and may try to cut corners when he realizes that he can’t do the project for that price.  All else being equal, it's better to spend more and get someone who is competent, has a good reputation, communicates well and whom you’re comfortable working with.



NEXT:  CHOOSING YOUR CONTRACTOR, PART 2:  THE CONTRACT
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The Construction Project Team

12/21/2018

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It takes a team of people to bring a construction project to life, including a lender, architect, homebuilder, material suppliers and government officials. Others may be involved as well, depending on the project.
 
LENDER
 
Many people who build a new home will borrow money from a bank, credit union or mortgage lender to fund their project.  The lender will decide what they can afford to borrow based on their monthly income, existing debt, anticipated home-related expenses, and credit score.  The lender will be interested in the value of the finished home because they don’t want to lend more than what the house can sell for.  They will want floor plans and elevations and will have the design of the prospective home appraised to determine its value. A lender will usually require that the borrower contribute a percentage of the cost of the home in the form of a down payment.
 
For an existing home, equity that has been built up may be borrowed against to fund remodeling or an addition to that home, in the form of a home equity loan.
 
Before approaching an architect or builder, it’s helpful to meet with a lender in order to know how much can be borrowed.
 
ARCHITECT
 
The architect will design your new home, remodel or addition and may also guide their client through the bidding and construction processes. 
 
HOMEBUILDER
 
The builder actually constructs the new home, remodel or addition.  The builder and their crew will likely do some of the work themselves but will also subcontract out parts of the job that they don’t have the in-house expertise to do.  Trades (subcontractors) that are frequently “subbed out” include concrete, cabinets and other millwork, electrical, plumbing and heating/cooling, as well as specialties such as sound or security systems.
 
The builder will have a contract with each of these subs, and the lender will likely require lien waivers from the builder, showing that the subs have been paid for their work. 
 
MATERIAL SUPPLIERS
 
The builder will typically have certain material suppliers that they like to work with. The homeowner will likely have little to no involvement with the supplier of materials such as trusses, lumber and sheathing but may work directly with suppliers of cabinets and counters, floor finishes, and plumbing fixtures, who may have showrooms where homeowners can view their products.
 
MUNICIPALITY, COUNTY AND STATE
 
The local municipality, county and state will also be involved in the project by way of ordinances and code requirements.  The municipality will usually have rules about what and where you can build on your property.  The county may have rules about private sewage systems, and building near flood plains, bodies of water or wetlands.  The state has mandatory building standards in the form of the Uniform Dwelling Code. Depending on the nature of your project, a building inspector may be required to inspect the project at certain stages of construction.
 
 
The project team may also include the following: 
 
INTERIOR DESIGNER
 
An interior designer can help with the selection of cabinets and countertops, flooring, tile, light fixtures, and plumbing fixtures  (although an architect may also help with these selections).  An interior designer can also help select and purchase furniture, window coverings, and paint colors.
 
LANDSCAPE ARCHITECT
 
A landscape architect is a specialist in the grounds surrounding the home.  They can help with the design of patios and other outdoor paving, trees, shrubs and flowers, decorative or retaining walls, outdoor lighting, and water features. 
 
STRUCTURAL ENGINEER
 
Depending on the structural complexity of a project, a structural engineer may be involved. They will usually be a subcontractor of the architect.
 
ENERGY MODELER / CONSULTANT
 
The services of an energy consultant may be included on projects where the client has a strong interest in energy efficiency.  The energy consultant can work with the architect and builder to suggest the best ways to build an energy-efficient home and may do energy modeling to predict the energy performance of a new home, possibly modeling different floor, wall and roof assemblies.
 
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What Will It Cost To Build My New Home?

11/9/2018

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Unfortunately, there's no easy answer to that question.  Building costs can vary widely depending on the home design, materials and details used and even location.  Here is a Fine Homebuilding article I've found which does a great job of discussing some of the decisions which can affect the price of a new home.  It appeared in issue #259,  the Spring / Summer 2016 issue of Fine Homebuilding.

​If you're building in the country, don't forget to add the cost of a septic system and well as well as a driveway.
​
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Borrowing Money To Build a Home Addition or Remodel

4/6/2017

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If you're planning to borrow money to build an addition or remodel your existing home, it's a good idea to check with your lender early in the process to get an idea of what your options are and how much you can borrow.  

If your equity in your home is greater than the cost of the addition / remodel, you're in luck.  With a home equity loan or home equity line of credit, you may be able to borrow as much as 100% of your equity for your building project, although you will likely pay a higher interest rate if the loan to value is greater than 80%.  

If you don't have enough equity, you will probably need to take out a construction loan.  A construction loan typically has an adjustable rate while the project is being built and will be converted to a permanent mortgage once construction is complete.  During construction, you pay interest on the funds that have been paid out.  

For a construction loan, the lender will want to have a copy of the building plans, as well as your builder's bid to do the work.  An appraisal is the basis for determining how much you can borrow. An appraiser will estimate the value of your home with the planned changes.  Typically a homeowner can borrow up to 80% of the value of the improved home.  Appraisers will judge the home's value based on the sale price of "comparables" - other homes in the area which are similar in size and age and which have sold recently.  It may be difficult to find comparables that are very similar, particularly if the home is highly unique.  

Homeowners may find that they're not able to borrow as much as they had hoped.  Some improvements add very little to the appraised value of a home.  Adding square footage to a home by adding another bedroom will likely increase the value of the home, although not necessarily as much as the cost of the improvement.  By contrast, beautifying the inside of a home might add little, if anything to the appraised value.  Using more expensive finishes or higher quality details may have little effect on the appraised value, because the appraiser has likely never seen the inside of the homes used as comparables, and so he or she is judging value based mostly on size, age and number of rooms rather than construction quality.

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What to Expect From Your Homebuilder

8/15/2016

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Many of us have heard stories from friends or family about bad experiences working with homebuilders on new homes, additions or remodeling projects.  What should you expect when working with a homebuilder? 

You can reasonably expect that they will:

  • respond in a timely way to your calls and emails, within a couple of days for non-urgent issues (sooner for urgent issues).  But please don’t be excessive about calling or emailing.  Keep in mind that the builder is probably working on job sites all day, not sitting in an office waiting for phone calls and emails.​
  • provide you with a detailed contract that is clear about what is included in the price, what isn’t included and the general terms of the agreement, such as how change orders are handled, what insurance they’ll carry, the warranty on their work, how any disputes will be handled and at what points in the project you’ll be billed for work and materials
  • clean up after themselves and leave the job site clean
  • provide regular onsite supervision of the work, either by themselves or their appointed superintendent
  • let you know when they’ll be on the job site and will be there when they say they will (for additions and remodels)
  • build the home according to your architectural plans (after all, that’s why you paid an architect to draw them)
  • be up to date on any certifications required by the state
  • be insured and provide you with their insurance information
  • ask you or your Architect for additional information if anything is unclear on the architectural plans
  • finish your project in a timely manner and won’t neglect your project if another, better job comes along

FROM THE HOMEBUILDER'S POINT OF VIEW

Homebuilders sometimes get a bad rap.  It’s true that some can be difficult to work with, but it’s helpful to know what they are dealing with.


  • Homebuilders are running a business.  They have employees who need to be kept busy and paid.  They have to deal with the uncertainties of weather and the complexity of juggling multiple subcontractors who have to do their work in a particular order.  They’re under pressure to bid a project low so that they’ll get it;  at the same time, if they don’t make enough money to pay their employees and pay for materials, they’ll go out of business.  
  • Ideally they’re out on the job site all day doing or overseeing the work but also have to find time to handle scheduling of subcontractors, paperwork, ordering of materials and communication with homeowners and architects.
  • Different types of homebuilders are suited for different types of jobs.  At one end of the spectrum are those who are best at working quickly on straightforward, uncomplicated projects.  At the other end are craftsman who take pride in building challenging, unusual projects.  Choose a builder who’s a good fit for your particular project.  The lowest priced builder is not necessarily the best value in the long run. 
  • If you’re planning to seek bids from multiple homebuilders, limit the number to three.  Bidding a project is time-consuming work that the builder generally doesn’t get paid for.  Don’t ask a builder for a bid unless there’s a good chance that they’ll get the project;  don’t ask a builder for a bid just to check their price against that of other bidders.  Thank those bidders who were not selected and let them know right away that they weren’t chosen so that they can find other projects to fill in their schedule.  Consider choosing a homebuilder up front and negotiating the price rather than bidding the job.
  • Have realistic expectations about how quickly your project can be built.  Allow plenty of time.  It takes a long time not only to construct a project but also to bid it, line up the subcontractors and  get the necessary permits. 
  • Weather can throw a wrench in the best plans if it is particularly rainy, snowy, hot or cold.  Be aware that the weather could delay your project and is out of the homebuilder’s control.
  • Make selections (for example, plumbing fixtures, exterior siding colors) in plenty of time;  don’t make the builder chase after you for decisions.  
  • Although some changes are inevitable during a project, try to keep them to a minimum.  Changes are easiest and less expensive to make before construction starts.  Understand that changes may add extra cost to the project and may also delay construction if they require rework and/or delay downstream work.  Changes to one aspect of a project may necessitate other changes.  ​
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Five Things to Consider When Adding On

12/29/2015

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Here are some common mistakes to avoid when you're planning an addition:

1.  IGNORING THE SHAPE AND STYLE OF THE EXISTING HOUSE:    An addition should be similar in proportions and style to the home it's being added on to (unless there is a conscious choice to make the addition look clearly different).  Sometimes this requires breaking the addition into smaller parts so that it doesn't overwhelm the house.   Height and rooflines of the existing house need to be considered as well.

2.  NOT CONSIDERING HOW DAYLIGHT WILL BE AFFECTED:  An addition can make adjacent spaces dark.  A room that was once warm and inviting may become dark and cold if an addition blocks existing windows.  

3.  THINKING THAT BIGGER IS BETTER:  There's a temptation to think that as long as you're adding on, you may as well "get your money's worth" by making it big.  It's better to design smart, not big.  Think about how the new space will be used and make it only as big as is necessary to meet your goals.  Consider how existing spaces may be repurposed to work with the addition.

4.  UNDERBUDGETING:  The cost per square foot of an addition is often higher than the cost per square foot of a new house, particularly if it involves structural changes to the existing house.  With any construction project, it's wise to assume that it will cost more than you think.  Decide which things are essential and which can be optional if the budget allows.  Include an additional 15 - 20% contingency for unexpected expenses.

5.  NOT CONSIDERING FLOW:  Think about how people will move from the existing house to the addition.  How open should the new and old spaces be to one another?  Where will furniture be placed?  Avoid chopping up rooms with too many doors, which makes furniture placement difficult.
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FREE HOME PLANNING GUIDE

4/21/2015

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I've just added a home planning guide to my website.  For most people, a home is the largest investment they'll ever make.  The 6-page Home Planning Guide takes some of the mystery out of designing a new home, addition or remodel.  It covers the following:

  • The factors you need consider in the design of your new home, addition or remodel
  • The characteristics of a successful addition
  • Contractors and Schedules
  • Zoning ordinances, building codes and covenants

Here's a link to the guide
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CONSTRUCTION BUDGETS AND SETTING PRIORITIES

9/12/2014

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Images of beautiful homes are everywhere:  on the internet, in home magazines, on television. We may see these beautiful things and want them for ourselves.  Unfortunately, we’re rarely given a sense of what they cost to build and may be unpleasantly surprised when we dig deeper.  

I think it’s only human nature that our wants are greater than our ability to pay for them.  No matter how large our budgets for a new home, addition or remodeling project, there will be things that we’d like to include but aren’t able or willing to pay for. 

If you’re thinking about remodeling an existing house or building a new one, consider these strategies for keeping costs in line with what you can afford:

  1. Build no more than you’ll use regularly (for example, consider eliminating the formal living room and formal dining room, unless these are spaces that are an important part of your lifestyle).
  2. Determine your priorities:  what is absolutely essential? what would be nice to have but could be eliminated if necessary?
  3. Consider using expensive materials, such as stone, in limited amounts in places where you’ll be able to enjoy them every day, (for example, using stone on the fireplace in your family room, rather than on a chimney surround that’s barely visible from the ground).
  4. Build what you like and will use, not what you think will increase your home’s resale value (how often will you use that mammoth whirlpool tub and fireplace that you’re considering for your master bathroom?)  This assumes that you’re not building with the intention of selling soon. 
  5. Consider lavishing more money on spaces that are important to you, and being more frugal in spaces that are less important (for example, splurging on a special tile backsplash in the kitchen if you love to cook and do it often, but keeping things simple in the bedroom if you use it mostly for sleeping).
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