3D animations can be very helpful in understanding what a new home will look like, before it is built.  3D still views can help a lot, but being able to "walk through" or "fly around" a building is even more valuable.  I've been experimenting with my CAD software's ability to generate 3D animations.  I can walk through the interior of a home or fly around the outside of it, and I'd like to start offering these views to my clients.  The difficult decision is always how much detail to put into the animations.  The more detail and nuance, the more time it takes to create the CAD model, and the longer it takes to render it.  In my CAD program, Vectorworks, adding lighting to the drawing, in particular, dramatically increases the size of the rendering but also creates a more interesting and lifelike animation.  

For now, at least, I plan to offer fairly simple animations with a limited amount of detail, that will give clients a good sense of what their new home will look like on the inside and outside but will certainly not be considered photorealistic.  I can add more detail and complexity to animations for clients who are interested in paying for that level of detail.

Below are a flyaround and a walkthrough of a current project that I did as experiments.  The videos can be paused at any point to take a longer look at a particular area.

If you're planning to build a home on a steep site, the location and design of the driveway should be considered early in the project.  The driveway must be designed to comply with the requirements of your municipality's driveway ordinance. The purpose of these requirements is to make the driveway safer (especially in wet or snowy conditions), to prevent erosion (which fills lakes and streams with sediment and encourages weed growth) and to make it possible for emergency vehicles (fire trucks and ambulances) to get safely to and from your home.  Driveway ordinances typically prescribe a maximum grade for driveways, commonly ranging from 10% - 15%.  At the intersection of the driveway with the public road, a maximum grade of 5% may be required for the first 20 to 30 feet.  There is often a requirement that steep ground (perhaps greater than 20% - 45% grade, depending on the municipality) cannot be disturbed in order to create the driveway.  A driveway on a relatively steep site may have to wind back and forth in order to increase the length of the driveway so that it can have a lower grade.

In addition, a home which is far from the public road (for example, on a rural site) will need to have a driveway which allows emergency vehicles to get to the home, turn around and drive back out.  This requires quite a bit of relatively flat land, enough for a 50' diameter circular drive or a 50' wide tee-shaped backout.

The erosion and grading plan shown above was done for a current project of mine.  The flat part of the site near the road has a high water table, and the back of the site is very steep, so the home was placed low on the hill, where the grade is shallower.  The area where the home will sit is not particularly steep, but space for a driveway and turnaround is limited by the proximity of the house to the property lines on the south and west, and to an existing stone wall and silo on the east.  The garage is on the main level of the house, which necessitates a steeper driveway than would have been required had the garage been at the same level as the partially exposed basement.  

The plan also calls out what measures will be taken to prevent erosion on the site, both during and after construction.

In another project that I'm currently working on, a large portion of the site is either wooded or sits within a floodplain.  The lot drops off steeply from the public road, and it was decided to design the driveway before the home, in order to determine the best location for the home and outbuilding.  Ed Short of Exeter Design, Inc. did two possible driveway grading plans, and the design of the home was based on one of those.  Ed did the erosion control and grading plan for the first project as well.

When choosing a site for your new home, it's important to consider not only the location of the house on the lot but also the ease of getting a driveway to that location.

I'm currently working on a new home to be located on a rural property near Westby, Wisconsin.  My clients are fans of Sarah Susanka and her "Not So Big House" concept, which "values quality over quantity and emphasizes comfort, beauty and a high level of detail".

The main living spaces will contain some special details such as multiple window seats, custom built-in shelves and cabinets, and a lowered soffit around the edges of the room combined with a vaulted ceiling in the middle.  To reduce costs, the bedrooms and other areas of the house will be left fairly simple.

Two of Susanka's trademark design features are utilized here:  defining spaces with changes of ceiling height and using horizontal trim bands to reinforce room scale and emphasize changes in the wall and ceiling plane.

The 3D Floor Plan above shows the public spaces on the right side, including a living/dining area, kitchen,  nook for the grand piano, entry foyer and screen porch.  

From the foyer, one looks past an arch to the piano nook.  The foyer is defined by the arch as well as columns and a lowered soffit between the foyer and seating area.

The view above shows the vaulted ceiling above the living/dining area, with 7' soffits around the edges creating a perceived transition to the piano nook and foyer.

As seen above, there are window seats centered on the dining table and the seating area.  They are made to feel more cozy by the 7' soffits above them and the bookcases which define their sides.

The image above shows the view from the kitchen toward the living/dining area and the screen porch, with the two windows seats on the left.

Many people dream of building a home in the country, perhaps after they retire and are no longer tied to a place of work.  Whether looking for a quieter, simpler lifestyle or wanting to move to a location with a lower cost of living, anyone contemplating such a move should be aware of some differences between living in the country and living in a city or suburb.  Here are some things to think about if you are considering building a home in a rural area.

LIFESTYLE
Many rural townships require a minimum lot size in order to maintain the rural character of the area by preventing the development of farmland into subdivisions.  A common minimum lot size is 40 acres, and many townships allow only one home on a property, with the exception of additional homes that will be used by family members who are helping to farm the land.  There may be a requirement that part of your land by preserved as farmland.

If you are building in an area with farms, think about how you will feel about normal farming activities that may occur on your neighbors' property.  During the spring, summer and fall, farmers may start planting or harvesting early in the morning or continue late into the night, in order to beat the weather.  In addition to noise, there may be smells associated with farms, particularly those that raise livestock. 

Many rural citizens like to hunt or allow other people to hunt on their land.  How do you feel about hearing gunshots from your home?  Rural land (and roads) may be used by snowmobilers in the winter and by owners of 4 wheelers the rest of the year.


BUILDING COSTS
Depending on how close to the road you build your home, you may need a much longer driveway than you would require in the city or suburbs, which can add tens of thousands of dollars to the cost of building your home.  Someone will have to plow the driveway as well, meaning you may need to purchase a plow attachment for your pickup truck or hire someone to plow for you.  

Most rural sites need to have a septic system and well, since they are not hooked up to a city's sanitary sewer and water supply.  Electricity may need to be brought from quite a distance to get to your home, depending on where on your property you plan to build.  These things generally add tens of thousands of dollars to the cost of construction.

There will likely be fewer general contractors to choose from to build your home, especially if you are far from a city.  Materials may need to be brought from a longer distance, increasing delivery costs, especially for unusual materials or products.  If you're building on a challenging site or in a hard-to-reach spot, that could increase costs for labor and equipment.


COMMUNICATION AND TRAVEL
Unfortunately there are still many rural places in the United States that do not have good wifi or cellular coverage (or the wifi may be very expensive).  This may be of particular concern if you are planning to work from your home and need to be able to reliably communicate with others.

Running to the grocery store to pick up a few things may require a long drive there and back.  If you have children, they may have a long bus ride to get to school, or you may choose to drive them to school and pick them up at the end of the day.  


VACATION HOME
If you're building a vacation home in the country, you may want to consider a security system that will alert you of intruders or burst plumbing pipes.  Some people hire a caretaker to check on their property regularly and take care of any problems.  If you won't be living in the home over the winter, you will need to either drain the water in your house, or keep the heat turned up high enough that the pipes won't freeze.
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LIVING NEAR THE WATER
Lakes, rivers and wetlands can be beautiful features on a site, but they also come with restrictions determining how close you can build, both to protect your home from flooding and to protect the water quality, habitat and scenic beauty of the area.  In Wisconsin, buildings are generally not allowed within 75 feet of the water.  Sites that are downriver from a dam may have a "dam shadow" that they cannot build within.  This is an area that is expected to become flooded if the dam breaks or is opened.    

In addition, water may affect where you can place your septic system and well.  High groundwater may determine whether or not you can build a basement under your home.  In order to limit runoff from your site into a lake, there will likely be a limit to the amount of "impervious surface", such as buildings, patios or driveways, that you're allowed to build on your lot.  Your county zoning office will be able to tell you whether a property is located within a "shoreland/wetland" or "floodplain" district.


Owning a house in the country can be incredibly enjoyable, but it's important to know the tradeoffs before buying land and starting the process of building.

It's been a while since I've posted to my blog.  It's been a very busy spring and summer, and I only had the chance to photograph one of my completed projects.  The home was designed as a second residence for a couple living in Waukesha, who own property in a beautiful valley between Soldiers Grove and Gays Mills in Crawford County, Wisconsin.  It was important to my clients to have outdoor spaces where they could enjoy their beautiful property, and so there is a large deck and a screen porch on the main level.  Also on the main level are the great room and master bedroom suite.

The walkout basement contains utilities, a guest bedroom, office, exercise room and additional bathroom.  Unfortunately my photos don't do it justice.

Not long after the house was finished, my clients decided to sell their Waukesha home and make this their full time residence.

The general contractor for the home was Kickapoo Homes, Inc. of Viroqua.

This current project in Madison, Wisconsin, involves a huge transformation in the way a house connects to and makes use of its back yard.  The existing home, built in 1956, is a ranch with a walkout basement.  The homeowners requested a small deck off of the dining room on the main level, and a three-season room on the walkout basement level, so that they could make better use of their backyard and have more room for outdoor entertaining.  

The home currently has a very poor connection between the main living spaces and the back yard.  The addition, as envisioned, will not only provide a private outdoor sitting area adjacent to the dining room but also connect the two levels on the outside with a stair.  The upper level deck is nestled into the roof of the three-season room, giving it a sense of privacy and shelter.  The three-season room on the lower level includes an indoor/outdoor fireplace and and a large patio.  

In addition, all of the windows in the existing house will be replaced, and the materials and color palette will be updated. 

I'm currently working on this remodel of an existing ranch-style home near Madison.  The three additions - a family room and a laundry room on the back side of the house, and the addition of a second story containing three bedrooms and a bathroom - will almost double the floor space and completely transform the exterior appearance of the house.

The laundry room sits directly behind the existing garage and serves as a mud room as well as a laundry.  The family room will have a vaulted ceiling, a large sliding door facing south toward the new patio, and a gas fireplace as a focal point at the east end.

The second story addition will be located above the existing kitchen, dining room and living room, and will contain three bedrooms plus a full bath.

I'm illustrating three alternatives for the new second story roof.  The first has a relatively low pitched gable facing the street, and reflects the mid-century vibe of the existing neighborhood.

The second has a steeper-pitched roof running parallel to the length of the house and gives it a more traditional appearance.

The third has a steep roof with shed dormers on the front and back to create head room for the bedrooms and bathroom.

All three versions make a dramatic change to the look of the house.

Before even beginning design of a new project, it's important to know what the legal limitations of your site are.

• What zoning district is your property located in?
• What are the required setbacks for your zoning district?  Height limitations?
• How many accessory structures (such as sheds or detached garages) are you allowed, and what are their location and size limitations?
• Are you allowed to have more than one dwelling unit (house) on your property?
• Is your site property on the lakefront or contain another navigable body of water?  If so, you will need to build at least 75 feet from the ordinary high water mark (in Wisconsin).  Lakefront property can be tricky because it is also limited in how much of the property can be covered by "impervious surfaces" such as paving or decks.
• Is your property located within a flood plain?
• What type of road is your property adjacent to / accessed from? Required setbacks from state and federal highways are greater than required setbacks from county highways, which are greater than required setbacks from local roads.

Here are some examples of important site information that was uncovered during zoning research for my projects:

• Clients planned to build a second residence on their lot.  Zoning research revealed that their property was limited to one dwelling, and they would have to subdivide their property in order to build a second building.
• Clients planned to turn their walkout basement into a separate rental unit.  It was found that the zoning ordinance allowed them to take in boarders (who would share their living space) but not to have a separate rental unit.  
• The Owner wanted to build a duplex on their lot, but the zoning ordinance only allowed single family homes as a permitted use.  They were able to get a duplex approved as a conditional use.
• The property was located in a large-lot subdivision, near the intersection of two streets.  For safety and visibility, the driveway needed to be located a certain distance from the intersecting road, which impacted the approach to the house and therefore the layout.
• A previous owner had built an addition that was partially in the required setback.  The lot was therefore nonconforming and the owner would need a variance in order to make any changes to the exterior of the house.  I was informed that it was unlikely that the variance would be granted, and the current owners decided not to pursue changes to the existing house.
• A vacation home located on the shore of Lake Wisconsin had a small narrow lot, and the existing house and deck covered the maximum allowable amount of impermeable surface area.  Any remodeling to the exterior, including adding a deck, patio, sidewalk or driveway, could not increase the amount of impermeable surface.
• Research uncovered that the site was affected by the "hydraulic shadow" of a dam which was located miles away from the property.  Any addition built within the hydraulic shadow would need to be at a high enough elevation that it would not get flooded if the dam should fail.
• In the process of zoning research, I discovered that a property sale had not been properly processed, and my clients were not legally the owner of the property, even though the deed said that they were.  I recommended that they contact their attorney to correct the situation.

It's good to know what types of structures and how many are allowed on your site, preferably before you even buy the property.
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If any new construction (new home or addition) will take place close to any of your property lines, it would be a good idea to have a survey of your property done.  It sometimes happens that property lines are not located where owners think that they are, and it's better to find this out early in the design process.

Your municipality (city, village, or town) can be very helpful in providing information about your property.  It's good to contact them early when you are considering a building project.  If your property is in a village or township, the county zoning office may be the first one you should contact.

I was very pleased when the new owners of "Black Earth Studio", a country residence that I designed in 2011, asked me to design an addition to the home.  The original building was designed for use as a second home by my original clients, but the new owners planned to use it as their full-time residence and wanted to expand it.  

The addition adds two bedrooms, a second bathroom and a laundry room.  Set further back in the hill, the addition steps up one level, creating a third story.  

Following the lead of the original design, the straight stair to the new third level is stretched along the north side of the addition, leaving the sunny south side free for the bedrooms and new bathroom.  The new laundry room is back-to-back with the existing bathroom, with the new bathroom above it, consolidating the plumbing in one area.

​It worked nicely to stack the south-facing windows one atop the other, creating a pleasing south facade.

The addition is currently under construction by JG Development of Blue Mounds, who also built the original home.

Sometimes clients plan to remodel or build their home in phases, so that they can pay for the work in smaller increments as they're able to save for it.  The smart thing to do, if you know that you're going this route, is to have a master plan that shows all of the work that will be done.  By looking ahead to future work, you can make sure that the changes you're making now won't throw off your plans for the future.  It can also help you see the best "packages" of work.  

I recommend starting with a schematic design of all the changes you're planning.  Then consider how many phases to divide the entire project into.  Ideally the work can be broken up so that you're not having to un-do work that was previously done.

Once the phases have been determined, you can move ahead with construction drawings for the first phase.  The construction drawings are the more detailed drawings that will be used to get your building permit and that the contractors will use to construct the project.  

You could have construction drawings done for all of the remaining phases of the project right away, but I think that it usually makes sense to wait until you're closer to the time when those additional phases will be constructed.  You may find that your thoughts about what you need change over time or as you live with the results of the first phase of work.  Additionally, the building codes change over time, and construction drawings done now may need to be changed down the road to reflect the code in effect at the time of construction.