Julie Kardatzke Architect, LLC
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Lake Wisconsin Remodel

11/27/2019

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Vacation home on Lake Wisconsin - a rendering of the new lake-facing elevation
Here is a recent project that is currently under construction.  This vacation home sits on the south side of Lake Wisconsin near Lodi, and was purchased last spring by a family from the Madison area.  The home had some quirky features - such as cedar roof shingles and rock walls used in the living room, and second-floor decks on the front and back that continued as narrow overhangs on the sides of the house. 

The first floor was divided from front to back by a central bearing wall which created a long and narrow living room.  The kitchen had little connection to the living room, and the space opposite the kitchen was poorly utilized as a dining area, with a lot of wasted space.

The new owners chose to move the kitchen to the north (lake) side of the house, where it would be adjacent to the living area, and a dining area was incorporated into the new kitchen.  The shape of the new great room has nicer proportions and gives the public spaces of the house better views of the lake.  

The master bedroom moved to the south (street) side of the house and gained a walk-through closet and private bathroom.  The space previously utilized for the dining table and basement stair became a laundry room and 1/2 bath.  

On the second level, the three bedrooms were re-configured and expanded to include part of the lake-facing balcony.

The existing low-slope roofs were replaced with steeper ones to give the home a less squat appearance, transforming the exterior look of the house.
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The original street elevation of the house - the low-pitched roofs gave it a squat appearance
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The original lake-facing elevation of the house
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The street elevation of the remodeled home will have steeper roofs, transforming the appearance.
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The existing living room felt long and narrow, with quirky stone and wood shingle ornamentation.
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The new first floor layout combines the kitchen and living room into one better-proportioned space with large doors facing the lake.
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The new layout of the second floor gives more room to the bedrooms by incorporating space from the former balcony.
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Eleven Questions to Ask About Your Property

10/4/2019

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So you're going to build a new home - how exciting!  Before you get to work planning that new home, it's important to consider your site and how it will affect the design of the home.  Below are eleven questions to ask yourself as you consider the design of your home and how it will fit on your property.  

These questions apply whether you've already purchased a lot or are just starting to look at properties.  If you already have a property, then these questions should help to determine the location of the home on the site and its layout.  If you're looking for property to buy, use these questions as you evaluate whether a given piece of land would suit your needs, particularly if you already have a floor plan that you would like to use.  

  • Where is the sun - in summer and winter? This is especially important if you plan to build a passive solar home or use roof-mounted solar panels but also affects how much sun - good or bad - you'll get in the house throughout the day.
  • Which direction do the winter winds come from? The summer breezes?  
  • Where are the views you want to enjoy and those you want to exclude? 
  • Are your neighbors’ homes visible? 
  • What other buildings or features do you plan to build on your site? 
  • Which parts of the site are most/least noisy? 
  • Are there any features of the site, such as vegetation or rock outcroppings, that you want to preserve?
  • How will you access the building site from the road, and what will you see as you drive along your driveway?  
  • Are there areas of the site that tend to be wet or carry surface drainage, or that should be avoided for other reasons?  
  • Is your site flat or sloping?  If sloping, is it a gentle or steep slope?  A flat site is ideal for slab on grade construction or an unexposed basement, or if you want a home that spreads out horizontally.  A moderately sloping site works well with a walkout basement.  A steeply sloping site works well with multiple levels and calls for a more vertical arrangement of levels and spaces (although keep in mind that there can be additional expenses related to site work that come with a steep site).  
  • Does the house size that you’re considering - including driveways, parking areas and outdoor living areas - fit well on your lot?

These questions and others are part of my Home Planning Guide, which is available for free download.

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Hollandale Country Home

8/21/2019

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Here are photos from a home I designed for a recently retired couple who relocated from Omaha, Nebraska.  Their beautiful 80 acre site is situated in the Town of Moscow near Hollandale, Wisconsin.  

The living room, kitchen, sun room and master bedroom suite are located on the first floor, and the floor joists were recessed so that there are no steps from the garage or the entry porch into the house.  There is also an elevator which connects all three floors, in order to make it easier for the homeowners to "age in place."

The walkout basement is currently unfinished, but there are plans for additional bedrooms there in the future.

The second floor is dedicated to a hobby room, which has windows in all four directions and a balcony for viewing the landscape and wildlife.  There is an additional balcony located off of the kitchen as well.

The sun room is spacious and well-suited to taking in the views as well as entertaining, and it can be closed off from the rest of the house with french doors.  The living room feels cozier and more intimate.
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The sun room
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The sun room
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The living room
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The master bedroom
The gently sloping site works well for a walkout basement, and the house is nicely integrated with numerous retaining walls and plantings, which the homeowners are in the process of installing.
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Boscobel Country Home #1

7/15/2019

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Exterior View of Custom Home near Boscobel, Wisconsin
This project is titled "Boscobel Country Home #1" because it is, by coincidence, one of two homes that I've designed for two separate clients, who have properties in the same development outside of Boscobel Wisconsin.  The two clients both contacted me in the spring of 2014, within a month of each other.  

The clients for this project are from the Chicago area, and construction of their home was completed in 2017.  The general contractor for this project was Richard Kinney of Knapps Creek Builders in Blue River, Wisconsin.

The clients requested a home inspired by a famous fishing shack in Rockport, Massachusetts called "Motif No.1", shown below.  I hadn't heard of it, but according to the New England Historical Society, it may be the most-painted building in the United States.

This will be a vacation home and eventual retirement home for my clients.  They purchased most of their cabinets from Ikea, and many of the furnishings for the home were acquired from thrift stores.
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Motif No. 1 in Rockport, Massachusetts, the inspiration for this project (photo by the New England Historical Society)
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View of kitchen with band of windows and minimal wall cabinets
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View of kitchen with pantry cabinets and wall-mounted barn lights
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View from the kitchen to the living and dining rooms
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View from the dining room to the living room and kitchen beyond
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The living room is oriented to the woods on the north of the property.
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A wood-burning stove in the living room provides supplemental heat.
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The master bedroom is simply but beautifully furnished in keeping with the style of the home.
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All three bedrooms are on the north side of the house, with view of the wood beyond.
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The exterior is inspired by "Motif No. 1" as well as Wisconsin agricultural buildings.
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Choosing Your Contractor, Part 2:  The Contract

6/5/2019

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In last month's blog post, I discussed how you can go about finding and choosing a general contractor for your project.  This month will explore the contract for construction itself.  First let's look at how contractors typically get paid.

HOW CONTRACTORS GET PAID
The most common way that contractors bill for their work is with a fixed-price bid which includes the cost for labor, materials, products and markup (the contractor’s 20- to 25- percent fee, which pays his overhead and his salary) for each phase of the job.  

Some contractors prefer to work on a time and materials (T&M) basis.  Instead of a set price, they charge as they go for the cost of labor and supplies, plus a markup.  Working on a time and materials basis, you pay only for the hours worked and the materials used, but it means less certainty about the final cost of the project.

The T&M contract may be especially appropriate for a project where there are a lot of unknowns,  such as a remodeling project where you’re uncertain what the contractor may find once he starts opening up the existing house.  An unscrupulous contractor can use a T&M contract to work slowly and pad his fee, so never sign a T&M contract unless it has a price cap (T&M, not-to-exceed contract).

THE CONTRACT
Once you've selected your general contractor, he or she should present you with a contract.  For the protection of both you and the contractor, always have a written contract. It should be clear and concise and should lay out all of your expectations and understandings about the job.  Do not sign anything until you understand it all. You may want to have your attorney review the contract before you sign it.

The contract should include:
  • the contractor’s name, physical address, phone number and license number
  • the scope of work, as detailed in the architectural drawings and specifications, including each material used and each product’s model, size and brand.  If some materials will be chosen later, the contract should say who’s responsible for choosing each item and how much money is budgeted for it (allowances)
  • the itemized bid (if you are using a fixed-price contract)
  • estimated project start and end dates 
  • any agreements you’ve made (e.g. when the workday starts, who is responsible for getting necessary permits, or whether the contractor is responsible for trash hauling and clean-up work)
  • a statement explaining any warranties on materials, labor or services (be sure you understand any exceptions or limitations)
  • the payment schedule for the contractor, subcontractors and suppliers
  • how changes orders are handled
  • a requirement that the contractor obtain lien releases from all subcontractors and suppliers
In addition you should get a list of subcontractors and proof of insurance.


THE PAYMENT SCHEDULE

A contract for construction should include a payment schedule.   The contractor may ask for an initial down payment.  After that, the contract should call for progress payments - that is, installments made when certain predetermined parts of the job (framing, mechanicals, drywall) have been completed to your satisfaction.  Never let the dollars get ahead of the work, so that you’re not paying out money for work that hasn’t been finished.   The final payment (retainage) should be at least 10 to 15 percent of the total cost.  
Before you sign off and make the final payment, check that:
  • all work is complete and meets the standards spelled out in the contract
  • the contractor has given you all of the product manuals and warranty certificates
  • you have proof that all subcontractors and suppliers have been paid (via lien waivers)
  • the job site has been cleaned up and cleared of excess materials, tools and equipment

The general contractor should give you lien waivers each time he is paid, as proof that he has in turn paid his subcontractors and suppliers for their labor and materials. If you pay the general contractor, but he fails to pay his subcontractors or suppliers, the subs or suppliers can put a lien on your home.

KEEP RECORDS

Before, during and after construction, keep all paperwork related to your project in one place.  This includes:
  • copies of the contract
  • change orders
  • any correspondence with your home improvement professionals
  • a record of all payments - you may need receipts for tax purposes
Keep a log or journal of all phone calls, conversations and activities.  You may also want to take photographs as the job progresses.  These records are especially important if you have problems with your project - during or after construction.



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Choosing Your Contractor, Part 1

5/15/2019

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It’s important to find the right contractor for your project, one whose skills and experience are a good fit for your project, and someone whom you can trust and feel comfortable working with.  Many contractors have a specialty, for example new homes, remodeling, or historic preservation.  Some are accustomed to working on fairly simple homes; others have experience building challenging homes which require a lot of craftsmanship and attention to detail.  You’ll want a contractor who has experience on projects similar to yours.  

If you plan to build using an uncommon material or building system (e.g. timber frame construction, SIP panels, straw bales, ICFs) or want a highly energy efficient house (e.g. built to Passive House standards or using double stud walls), you’ll want a contractor who has experience building with those materials / systems.


FINDING PROSPECTIVE CONTRACTORS

Talk to friends, neighbors and co-workers who’ve done home construction projects.  If you can, take a look at the work done and ask about their experience.   You might try asking for recommendations from the local building inspector, who'll know which contractors routinely meet code requirements, or pay a visit to your local lumberyard, which sees contractors regularly and knows which ones buy quality materials and pay their bills on time.  If you’re doing a remodeling project, check with the National Association of the Remodeling Industry for a list of members in your area (nari.org).  To find builders in your area that are members of the National Association of Home Builders, visit nahb.org. 


DO YOUR RESEARCH

Once you’ve got names of potential builders, it’s time to research them. Look at the Better Business Bureau website for information regarding complaints. Keep in mind that a complaint is not necessarily proof of a bad act on the part of the contractor, but a slew of complaints can signal potential difficulties with the contractor’s services.
 

Check out a contractor’s reputation on online rating sites you trust.  Do people seem to have similar experiences, good or bad? 


TALK TO THE CONTRACTOR

Now that you’ve done the initial vetting of prospective contractors, it’s time to contact those who’ve made the cut.  Give each prospective contractor a call.  Ask him questions.  (I have compiled a list of “Questions to Ask a Prospective Builders”, which I give out to clients.)

Ask for references from former customers of the builder, and randomly call several of those references, (although you should keep in mind  that the contractor is likely to “cherry pick” past customers and is unlikely to use an unsatisfied customer as a reference).  My resource “Questions to Ask Builders’ References” provides a helpful list.

Ask the contractor for a list of subcontractors normally used during projects. Contact the subcontractors and ask them about their experiences in working with the general contractor. Ask if they were paid promptly.  Ask them for any safety or ethical concerns and whether they're comfortable working with the contractor.

Ask the contractor for credit references from suppliers and call them to find out whether the contractor pays his bills on time.  


MEET THE CONTRACTOR

Assuming that everything has checked out well, meet with the prospective contractor face to face.  Is he easy to communicate with?  Does he inspire trust?  Is this someone that you’d like to work with over many months?

Visit a current job site and see for yourself how the contractor works. Is the job site neat and safe? Are workers courteous and careful with the homeowner's property?

Visit completed projects that the contractor has built.  Is the quality of construction good?


BID OR TO NEGOTIATE?

At this point there is one of two ways that you can go.  You can request bids from more than one contractor, or you can choose your favorite and ask that one for a proposal.  There are pros and cons to each method.  


IF YOU CHOOSE TO BID THE PROJECT

If you choose to bid out the project, now is the time to ask for bids.  It may be tempting to get lots and lots of bids, but it’s preferable to choose only three.  This will give you a fair sample to choose from without wasting the time of many contractors who have a small chance of seeing any payback for the many hours that it takes to put together a bid.  It will also be easier for you to make a decision if you don't have a multitude of bidders to choose from.

Give each prospective contractor a set(s) of drawings.  Ideally your prospective contractors will be bidding from a complete set of architectural plans and specifications that call out every detail of the project.  Otherwise each contractor will make his own assumptions about what you want, and the bids will be apples-to-oranges comparisons.   

Each bid should include a detailed breakdown of the cost of materials, labor, and overhead and profit.  With  luck, each contractor will have broken down his bid in a similar way to make it easy to compare, but it’s more likely that you will have to do some deciphering and ask some questions to figure out what is and isn’t included, and the cost of each item.  I have put together a spread sheet that I can use to help clients compare bids from different contractors.

ALLOWANCES:  If you have an abbreviated set of architectural plans or have not yet chosen all of the materials and products for your project, any items that haven’t been nailed down will typically be handled with an allowance, a dollar amount meant to cover, for example, the cost of your cabinets.   Be aware that allowances are often too low, which can result in an unpleasant surprise when you get the bill for the actual cost of those items.  Even if you aren’t ready to make a final selection of items, you can get a rough idea of their cost by going to the store or looking online to get a sense of the price range for the style and level of quality that want.  Don’t forget to include the cost of sales taxes and delivery charges for the items.


SELECT THE CONTRACTOR

Once you have all of the bids in hand, don’t automatically choose the lowest bidder.  Be wary of any bid which is much lower than the others.  A contractor whose bid is substantially lower than the others may have left something out of his estimate and may try to cut corners when he realizes that he can’t do the project for that price.  All else being equal, it's better to spend more and get someone who is competent, has a good reputation, communicates well and whom you’re comfortable working with.



NEXT:  CHOOSING YOUR CONTRACTOR, PART 2:  THE CONTRACT
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THE IMPORTANCE OF DETAILS:  A CRAFTSMAN STYLE HOME

4/5/2019

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CRAFTSMAN STYLE HOME - NEW FRONT FACADE
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CRAFTSMAN STYLE HOME - ORIGINAL FRONT FACADE
I'm currently working on the design of this Craftsman-style house for a site overlooking Shell Lake in Washburn County, Wisconsin.  My clients came to me with a design that had been drawn by a designer at the local lumber yard, and while they were happy with the layout, they were not satisfied with the outward appearance of the house, which didn't resemble their inspiration pictures.  

One difficulty with using historic styles to build current-day houses is that our size expectations are different than they were in earlier times.  The original bungalows and craftsman-style homes were typically much smaller than new homes built today, and it can be difficult to achieve the same look and proportions of homes from foregone days while also expanding the amount of space within the house.
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CRAFTSMAN STYLE HOME - ORIGINAL BACK FACADE
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CRAFTSMAN STYLE HOME - NEW BACK FACADE
I improved the original design by paying careful attention to the details that give a home of this era its character.  The revised design uses window sizes and groupings that are more appropriate for homes of that era, as well as period details such as decorative brackets, exposed rafter tails on the front porch and head trim bands that extend beyond the sides of the windows.  

While leaving the first level floor plan mostly as-is, I narrowed the house a few feet to subtly improve the proportions of the front facade and moved the first floor bathroom and side entrance to a bump out on the right side of the house.  I grouped and moved the windows on the front wall to create a nicely balanced facade.

The second story plan was totally reworked.  By moving both bedrooms to the front of the house, I was able to achieve an attractive symmetrical arrangement of the windows on the second floor.  The second and third bedroom closets grew from 4' to 6' long, and the upstairs family bathroom went from a 1/2 bath to a full bath. This was achieved without increasing the overall square footage of the second floor by increasing the wall height of the upper floor, which created more usable space.  

Due to an attention to proportion, scale, balance, symmetry, hierarchy (for example, windows on the upper floor should generally be smaller than windows on the lower floor) and appropriate period detail, the revised design is both more beautiful and more functional than the original.
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CRAFTSMAN STYLE HOME - ORIGINAL RIGHT FACADE
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CRAFTSMAN STYLE HOME - NEW RIGHT FACADE
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CRAFTSMAN STYLE HOME - ORIGINAL LEFT FACADE
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CRAFTSMAN STYLE HOME - NEW LEFT FACADE
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So Many Choices

3/11/2019

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One of the challenging parts of building a new home or even doing an addition or remodeling project is that there are so many choices that must be made.  You may have been planning your home project for years and already know exactly what you want.  If not, your architect or builder can likely recommend suppliers that they like to work with.  Showrooms can be terrific places to see what's available and how prices compare, and knowledgeable sales people can educate you about product differences.

The internet can be a great resource for ideas or even a source for purchasing materials.  However, keep in mind that if you purchase a product on-line and there's a problem with it after it's installed, it may not be covered under your builder's warranty so the cost of labor to replace it may not be included in your construction contract.  

Here is a list of products that need to be selected on a typical project.  There may be additional selections needed for your project.

CHOICES
 ​EXTERIOR
            Siding and Trim
            Windows
            Exterior Doors
            Roofing, soffit and fascia
            Decking / deck railing
            Brick or stone veneer
 
INTERIOR CARPENTRY
            Interior Doors 
            Door Hardware – locks, latches, knobs, levers, hinges, etc.
            Trim – baseboards, casings and mouldings
            Stair
 
CEILING FINISHES
 
WALL FINISHES
 
FLOORING
 
WALL TILE
 
OTHER DECORATIVE FEATURES
            Fireplace Surround
            Special Wall tile
            Faux beams
            
CABINETS – kitchen, bath, mud room, laundry, other, including hardware
 
COUNTERS – kitchen, bath, laundry
 
PLUMBING FIXTURES – kitchen, bathrooms, laundry room 
 
PLUMBING FITTINGS
 
APPLIANCES – kitchen, laundry room
 
LIGHT FIXTURES – interior, exterior
            
BATH ACCESSORIES – mirror, toilet paper holders, towel bars, grab bars, other
            
SHELVING / STORAGE
 
OTHER
            Woodstove or Zero Clearance Fireplace
            Patio Paving Material
            Electrical outlets, light switches
            HVAC registers
            Sound system or smart technology
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Readstown Contemporary Hillside Home

1/25/2019

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I am currently working on construction drawings for a new home near Readstown, Wisconsin.  My clients will soon be empty nesters, and this will become their full-time home after they retire in a few years.  

On this site, the best long distance views and sun exposure throughout the day are to the southeast, and so all of the public spaces, including the screen porch and deck, as well as the master bedroom, are lined up along that side of the home.  

The garage is tucked under the house in order to make use of the site slope and also to reduce the amount of basement space.  With the exception of the guest entry / mud room, all of the living spaces are on the upper level.  A covered patio on the opposite end of the house from the garage is sized so that it could be used as a single-car carport in the future if the clients find that walking up and down stairs becomes too difficult.
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The 3D floor plan below shows the arrangement of the public spaces and master bedroom along the southeast side of the house.  A den, guest bedroom, second bathroom and laundry occupy the northwest side of the house.  

The living room includes a 10' ceiling and large window grouping flanked by built-in shelving and a window seat.  It is divided from the kitchen by a partial wall which helps to define the two spaces but allows some visibility between them.  In place of a formal dining room, there is a dining nook with built-in seating, which is given a sense of separation by a partial wall and a 7' ceiling height.
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The long 3D section through the house, shown below, clearly illustrates how the utilitarian spaces (garage and basement) sit below the main level of the house.  It also illustrates how the ceiling is highest in the center of the house (the living room) and steps down towards either end.
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The Construction Project Team

12/21/2018

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It takes a team of people to bring a construction project to life, including a lender, architect, homebuilder, material suppliers and government officials. Others may be involved as well, depending on the project.
 
LENDER
 
Many people who build a new home will borrow money from a bank, credit union or mortgage lender to fund their project.  The lender will decide what they can afford to borrow based on their monthly income, existing debt, anticipated home-related expenses, and credit score.  The lender will be interested in the value of the finished home because they don’t want to lend more than what the house can sell for.  They will want floor plans and elevations and will have the design of the prospective home appraised to determine its value. A lender will usually require that the borrower contribute a percentage of the cost of the home in the form of a down payment.
 
For an existing home, equity that has been built up may be borrowed against to fund remodeling or an addition to that home, in the form of a home equity loan.
 
Before approaching an architect or builder, it’s helpful to meet with a lender in order to know how much can be borrowed.
 
ARCHITECT
 
The architect will design your new home, remodel or addition and may also guide their client through the bidding and construction processes. 
 
HOMEBUILDER
 
The builder actually constructs the new home, remodel or addition.  The builder and their crew will likely do some of the work themselves but will also subcontract out parts of the job that they don’t have the in-house expertise to do.  Trades (subcontractors) that are frequently “subbed out” include concrete, cabinets and other millwork, electrical, plumbing and heating/cooling, as well as specialties such as sound or security systems.
 
The builder will have a contract with each of these subs, and the lender will likely require lien waivers from the builder, showing that the subs have been paid for their work. 
 
MATERIAL SUPPLIERS
 
The builder will typically have certain material suppliers that they like to work with. The homeowner will likely have little to no involvement with the supplier of materials such as trusses, lumber and sheathing but may work directly with suppliers of cabinets and counters, floor finishes, and plumbing fixtures, who may have showrooms where homeowners can view their products.
 
MUNICIPALITY, COUNTY AND STATE
 
The local municipality, county and state will also be involved in the project by way of ordinances and code requirements.  The municipality will usually have rules about what and where you can build on your property.  The county may have rules about private sewage systems, and building near flood plains, bodies of water or wetlands.  The state has mandatory building standards in the form of the Uniform Dwelling Code. Depending on the nature of your project, a building inspector may be required to inspect the project at certain stages of construction.
 
 
The project team may also include the following: 
 
INTERIOR DESIGNER
 
An interior designer can help with the selection of cabinets and countertops, flooring, tile, light fixtures, and plumbing fixtures  (although an architect may also help with these selections).  An interior designer can also help select and purchase furniture, window coverings, and paint colors.
 
LANDSCAPE ARCHITECT
 
A landscape architect is a specialist in the grounds surrounding the home.  They can help with the design of patios and other outdoor paving, trees, shrubs and flowers, decorative or retaining walls, outdoor lighting, and water features. 
 
STRUCTURAL ENGINEER
 
Depending on the structural complexity of a project, a structural engineer may be involved. They will usually be a subcontractor of the architect.
 
ENERGY MODELER / CONSULTANT
 
The services of an energy consultant may be included on projects where the client has a strong interest in energy efficiency.  The energy consultant can work with the architect and builder to suggest the best ways to build an energy-efficient home and may do energy modeling to predict the energy performance of a new home, possibly modeling different floor, wall and roof assemblies.
 
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